Discover Kotohira in Shikoku: Kompira-san, Local Charm and Hot Springs
Kotohira is a town I highly recommend including on your Shikoku itinerary. Located in Kagawa Prefecture, it's often overshadowed by other destinations like Takamatsu and Naoshima, but if you’re a slow traveler, shrine lover, or looking to explore a lesser-known gem, Kotohira (琴平) is absolutely worth the visit. It ended up being one of my favorite stops during my one-week Shikoku road trip.
In this Kotohira travel guide, I’ll walk you through the best things to do in Kotohira, where to stay and essential travel tips to make the most of your visit.
Why You Should Visit Kotohira
Located in western Kagawa Prefecture, Kotohira is best known for Kompira-san (sometimes spelled Konpira-san and officially called Kotohira-gu (金刀比羅宮)), a sacred Shinto shrine that’s been a pilgrimage site for centuries. Dedicated to the guardian gods of the sea, fertility and medicine, this shrine complex sits high up on Mt. Zouzu and rewards those who climb its iconic stone steps with serene atmosphere and beautiful views of the Sanuki Plain. I also loved the local charm of the traditional shopping street at the base of the shrine.
In addition, Kotohira is easily accessible from Takamatsu, the capital of Kagawa prefecture. I traveled there by car, but you can also get there by train in one hour.
Personally, I hadn’t expected to like Kotohira so much. If you’re looking for an authentic experience in Shikoku filled with tradition, quiet charm, and natural beauty, Kotohira should absolutely be on your itinerary!
Best Things to Do in Kotohira
Wander in the Little Souvenir Shops While Starting to Tackle the Stone Steps of Konpira Omotesando
Your Kotohira visit starts with the famous Omotesando path, a charming street lined with souvenir shops and restaurants. It leads you straight to the stone steps of Kotohira shrine, and the climb itself is part of the experience. You can definitely take your time here on the way up or down to browse local sweets, wooden crafts, and handmade souvenirs. I highly recommend, for example, stopping off at Iwaza (岩座 琴平店), which has beautiful goshuincho books and power stones, at the start of the street. Note that many souvenir shops open after 9am and close between 5 and 6pm.
Walking sticks left for pilgrims and travelers ready to walk to Kotohira-gu
Explore Kotohira Shrine and Admire the Panoramic Views
Kotohira-gu Daimon
Sakura No Baba, a famous cherry blossom viewing spot in spring
Kompira-san is one of Shikoku’s most important spiritual sites. The walk up to the shrine is beautiful as many of the steps after passing the entrance gate are surrounded by forest, giving it a mystical, almost otherworldly feel. Though the 785 steps to the main shrine is a challenge, you’ll encounter small shrines and guardian statues guiding your way up, which can be great excuses to take breaks and explore around. Since some of the steps are quite steep, it's indeed advisable to take plenty of breaks and wear comfortable shoes.
There is even a tea-room and restaurant, called Kamitsubaki (カフェ＆レストラン 神椿), where you might want to stop to take a break on the way back. The steepest part of the climb awaits you after passing by Asahisha (旭社), the largest building in the shrine complex. Once you’ve arrived to the main shrine, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views over Kotohira town and the surrounding mountains. The sense of achievement was well worth the tiring climb!
Gohon-Gu (main shrine)
If you’ve still have energy, you can continue and climb another 583 steps from the main shrine to Izutama shrine (嚴魂神社), the inner shrine of Kotohira-gu. It was a little late when I visited so I wasn't able to hike this second section, but I'll certainly do it next time.
✨TRAVELY TIP: If you want to collect goshuin (stamps or seals obtained at shrines and temples in Japan), make sure you get to the goshuin counter at the main shrine before it closes. I literally did a cardio session, rushing up the last section of stairs to get there before the 5pm closing time. Despite this little rush, I had a fantastic experience visiting Kompira-san in the late afternoon before the shrine closed (which is at 6pm), as it was almost empty and the atmosphere was quite special with the lanterns and lights coming on as night fell.
➡️ For more information regarding Kotohira-gu, you can check the official guide of the shrine and map (in English).
Discover More of Kotohira’s Cultural and Historical Sights
If you have more time, there’s more to Kotohira than Kompira-san. You can visit the Kanamaruza Kabuki Theater (旧金毘羅大芝居(金丸座)), Japan’s oldest existing theater, built in 1835 and designated a National Important Cultural Property. It still hosts performances during its spring festival season in April. I didn’t get the chance to visit it but it looks beautifully preserved.
Nearby, you’ll also find museums dedicated to sake brewing and maritime history: the Kinryo Sake Museum (金陵の郷) and Kotohira Maritime Museum (琴平海洋博物館). You can also take a short stroll to see an old wooden bridge, Sayabashi (鞘橋(金刀比羅宮)).
Enjoy a Relaxing Stay at a Ryokan with Hot Springs
I highly recommend staying overnight in Kotohira. There's a quiet charm to the streets of Kotohira after the day's visitors have left, and I think photographers will appreciate it.
In addition, the town is home to several nice hotels and ryokan, many of which offer natural onsen baths, tatami rooms and seasonal kaiseki meals made from local ingredients. After hiking to Kompira-san, a relaxing bath in an open-air onsen was the perfect way to end my day!
Where to Stay in Kotohira
Kotosankaku Hotel Review: A Perfect Experience
I stayed at Kotosankaku Hotel, and it was a wonderful experience that I can warmly recommend. This large and welcoming hotel offers excellent value for the money and embodies the best of Japanese hospitality, with beautiful interiors and spacious indoor and outdoor public onsen baths. There is a large parking and it's also only a short walk from Kotohira station and the start of the Konpira Omotesando, making it a super convenient base for your visit.
The hotel offers a variety of rooms (Japanese-style rooms, Western-style rooms, mixed rooms and special rooms with open-air bath) and various facilities to provide the perfect experience for guests, with an on-site izakaya, karaoke rooms, table tennis, games corner and more.
Dinner was a highlight: a full kaiseki course with local seasonal specialties. Breakfast the next morning featured a wide buffet with both Japanese and Western options.
I also really appreciated the onsen experience there. There are two different onsen areas (with both indoor and outdoor baths) separated by gender, but they are swapped between evening and morning, so you get the change to experience both areas during your stay. It was a perfect post-hike treat!
Other Hotel Recommendations in Kotohira
If I were to visit Kotohira again and wanted to stay in a new place, based on reviews, I’d recommend:
Kotohira Kadan (ことひら温泉 琴平花壇), a luxurious historic ryokan with elegant Japanese gardens and private hot spring options in addition to shared indoor and outdoor baths, which sounds like a wonderful option for a special occasion.
Onyado Shikishima-kan (ことひら温泉 御宿 敷島館), a beautiful hotel with onsen baths, recommended for its ideal location at the start of the main street leading to Kotohira-gu.
Kotohira Park Hotel, a simple and modern business hotel right by Kotohira station, perfect if you just need a clean and convenient stay without the ryokan extras.
Kotori Coworking & Hostel Kotohira, a well-reviewed hostel with dormitory and private rooms, as well as a co-working space, that seems like a great budget-friendly option in Kotohira.
➡️ For more accommodation options in Kotohira, you can check Agoda and Booking to find the best deals and locations that suit your travel plans.
Essential Travel Tips to Plan Your Visit to Kotohira
Best Time to Visit Kotohira
Kotohira is a year-round destination. It is most popular in spring for its cherry blossom trees on the way to the shrine, and in autumn when the Kotohira-gu is decked out in autumn foliage. Because of the heat, if you're coming in summer, I'd recommend tacking the climb to the shrine early in the morning or late in the afternoon. I imagine that winter is a peaceful time to visit Kotohira, ideal if you want to enjoy the hot springs and avoid the crowds.
How to Get to Kotohira
Kotohira is easy to reach by train, making it a convenient stop on any Shikoku itinerary:
From Takamatsu: JR Kotohira station is 45min-1h15 from Takamatsu station on the JR Yosan or Dosan lines (35min with a limited express train). You can also take the Kotoden Kotohira line from Takamatsu Chikko or Kawaramachi station to Kotoden-Kotohira station (about 1 hour).
From Okayama: You can take the JR Seto-Ohashi Line to Tadotsu, then transfer to the Dosan Line to Kotohira (around 1.5 hours). There is also a hourly Dosan Line limited express train connecting Okayama and Kotohira in 1 hour.
From Matsuyama or Kochi: Kotohira is accessible via the JR Dosan Line but plan for longer travel times.
If you're planning to explore more of Kagawa or Shikoku, I'd highly recommend hiring a car, as you'll have much more freedom to explore the rural areas and many of Shikoku’s nature gems, as well as some of the temples of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage that can be hard or impossible to reach by public transportation. Alternatively, the JR All Shikoku Rail Pass can also be a great way to explore Shikoku's main cities and attractions, as it gives you unlimited travel on JR trains and some of the island's buses and ferries.
Other Things to Do in Kagawa Prefecture
If you’re planning to explore more of Kagawa Prefecture, here are some ideas on which I’ve written about:
Takamatsu, a compact port city is known for its iconic Ritsurin Garden, flavorful Sanuki udon, and beautiful views over the Seto Inland Sea.
➡️ Read my 1-day Takamatsu itineraryTakaya Shrine (高屋神社), known for its “torii in the sky” that offers one of the most breathtaking views in Kagawa.
➡️ Read my Takaya Shrine Hiking guide
To Conclude
Between the spiritual power of Kompira-san, the charm of old-fashioned streets lined with little shops, and the restorative stay in a ryokan with hot springs, Kotohira was one of the highlights of my trip to Shikoku. I underestimated how much I’d enjoy this town and wish I had arrived earlier to explore more of the little shops and appreciate the local atmosphere. I actually plan to visit again during my next trip to Shikoku, so I can go all the way to the upper shrine of Kompira-san. So if you’re planning a trip to Kagawa Prefecture or creating your Shikoku travel route, don’t overlook this wonderful destination.
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