A Night at Kanaguya: A Review of a Traditional Ryokan in Shibu Onsen
Kanaguya (歴史の宿金具屋) is a traditional ryokan that is said to be over 250 years old. It is located in the main street of Shibu Onsen, in Yamanouchi, Nagano Prefecture. I have been to this ryokan three times and can highly recommend it. Here’s why!
Why I Love this Ryokan
A Beautiful Building with a Ghibli Vibe
The building is stunning and is said to have been one of the locations of inspiration for Hiyao Miyazaki's film "Spirited Away". The view from the main street is especially beautiful at nighttime.
A Traditional Interior that Makes You Feel Like a Maze Explorer
The ryokan is both very large, yet has narrow corridors, making you feel like you are in a castle from another time. To be honest, I got lost a few times looking for the different baths and had to refer to maps and signs to find my way. I felt like going on an adventure.
A Paradise for Onsen Lovers
There are several baths in the ryokan:
2 indoor public baths: one for each sex, but you can try both if you stay overnight as one bath is accessible to women in the evening and then becomes accessible to men the next morning, and vice versa. My favorite bath of the two is the Roman bath. Be sure to try it if you visit Kanaguya!
5 private baths, each with its own atmosphere: they are perfect for couples, families, tattooed people, or simply people embarrassed by the nudity of others. There is no need to book a private bath in advance. As long as the door is open, you can use it (and don’t forget to close the door behind you). Of the 5 private baths, the one with a Fuji mosaic is large and pretty, but my favorite was a small bath in a room that looked like a cave.
2 exterior baths or rotemburo (露天風呂): one for each sex. Rotemburo is my favourite, especially in winter when you find yourself bathing under a starry night as snowflakes fall on your skin.
The Best of a Traditional Ryokan Stay
Kanaguya offers the best of a traditional ryokan stay. The rooms are well appointed with traditional furniture and decorations. Tea and local sweets are provided in the room on arrival, as well as a yukata (浴衣) with several layers so you can wear them in winter when exploring the city. A key to open the 9 public baths around Shibu Onsen is also provided in the room (check my article on Shibu Onsen to know more about it).
And let's not forget the food! Kanaguya offers kaiseki (懐石), a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner as well as a traditional breakfast. It is truly amazing to walk into the huge restaurant room to find your table covered with dishes for your group. I think trying kaiseki should be a must for anyone traveling to Japan for the first time, but be aware that you may not enjoy all the dishes. Some tastes and ingredients may surprise foreigners, especially for breakfast.
Dinner
Breakfast
I personally love kaiseki cooking as I love discovering new flavours and am always amazed by the variety of dishes. My family, however, found it difficult to eat everything, although it was an experience they were happy to have and a memorable part of their trip. Moreover, ryokans usually use local products for their kaiseki cooking. Trying kaiseki is therefore a great way to enjoy local food, drinks and ingredients.
One thing is for sure, you will be totally full after each meal!
A Fair Price for an Unforgettable Experience
Staying at a ryokan can be expensive. While Kanaguya may be too expensive for people traveling around Japan on a budget, I think the price is well worth the experience described above, which includes two impressive traditional meals, beautiful surroundings and amazing facilities. Moreover, as check-in starts at 3pm and check-out is at 10am, you have plenty of time to enjoy the place and the surroundings if you plan to arrive early (I personally recommend this).
On the Kanaguya website (English version), it’s indicated that the price per person ranges from 18,700 yen to 42,900 yen (depending on the time of year, day of the week, and meal plan), plus bath tax. You can directly book a room on their website (in Japanese), or on other websites such as Agoda or Rakuten travel.
To Conclude
I think a stay at Kanaguya could be ideal for a special occasion and would definitely be a memorable experience. There are of course many other options to choose from in Shibu Onsen in terms of accomodation, but I honestly don’t think you can be nothing but happy after a night at Kanaguya.
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