Shiratani Unsuikyo Hiking Guide: Discover Yakushima’s Mononoke Forest
The Shiratani Unsuikyo ravine (白谷雲水峡) was my favourite place in Yakushima and one of most beautiful hikes I have ever done. With its ancient trees and moss-covered stones, the Shiratani Unsuikyo ravine exudes a unique and mystical atmosphere. No wonder it was the inspiration for the famous animated film Princess Mononoke, and you can easily see the resemblance once you enter this beautiful, lush forest.
How to Get to the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine in Yakushima
The Shiratani Unsuikyo ravine is easily accessible from the port of Miyanoura (to know more about how to get to Yakushima and other things to do on the island, check out my other article here).
It takes around 30 minutes by car to reach the car park at the entrance to the ravine. As you get deeper into the mountain and closer to the entrance, you are likely to see Yakushima deer and monkeys relaxing on or near the road. You can compare options and book a rental car through Rentalcars.com, or rencal car websites such as Budget Rent a Car (I had booked with them and it went very smoothly).
While I would recommend renting a car to explore Yakushima, if it is not an option for you, please note that the ravine is also accessible by bus (only 7 a day, so better check the timetable in advance here if you choose this transport option).
Things to Know Before Starting to Hike
At the entrance to the ravine, you'll see a small administration building where you can pay a small fee as a donation towards forest conservation efforts. By paying the donation fee, you will also receive a ¥200 discount voucher that you can use to visit Yakusugi Land (read my dedicated article here). There, you can obtain a map of the area in English, with the various hiking trails (pdf version available here).
Photo by Fisheye Therapy
There are three hiking trails: the Yayoisugi Cedar Course (2 km long, 1 hour walk), the Bugyosugi Cedar Course (3-4 km long, 3 hour walk) and the Taikoiwa Rock Round Trip Course (around 5.6 km, 4 hour walk). The approximate time given above is for the entire walk to and from the car park. Please note that the Bugyosugi Cedar Course will most likely be closed in the event of recent heavy rains, as there are several river crossings that can become dangerous as the water rises (this was the case on my visit). What's more, if you want to see the exact area that is said to have inspired Ghibli's Mononoke Forest, you'll need to take the Taikoiwa Rock Round Trip Course to the moss-covered forest. Please note that this part of the Shitarani Unsuikyo ravine may also be closed in the event of heavy rain (you will be informed of which trails are open or closed at the entrance of the ravine).
As for the level of the hike, from the entrance to the Satsuki suspension bridge (points 1 to 6 if you consult the map whose link I shared two paragraphs above), the path is well maintained with a concrete or wooden footbridge in some parts, so it's suitable for inexperienced hikers. If you take the Taikoiwa Rock Round Trip Course as I did, after the Satsuki suspension bridge, the hike is a little more challenging, as the path goes uphill, and there are many roots and rocks that require caution, especially as they become slippery in rain (hiking shoes are required).
It's important to know that the only toilets available are at the entrance to the hike, next to the car park, or at the Shiratani hut, where there is only one disposable toilet booth (you'll need to bring your own bag, which you can buy at one of the island's information kiosks, and take it back to the car park to dispose of it in the bins provided). More details on this matter here.
Hiking Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine in Ten Pictures
We visited Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine the day we arrived to Yakushima straight after picking up our rental car at Minayoura port. It was around 2pm when we parked at the entrance, and after giving a donation at the entrance and picking up a map, we started the walk, already knowing that we would do the Taikoiwa Rock Round Trip Course, to see the scenery that inspired one of my favorite Ghibli movies and contributed to make me fall in love with Japan.
The first part of the walk follows a clear river along well-maintained stone and wooden paths, all the way to Satsuki Suspension Bridge.
Satsuki Suspension Bridge
After crossing the bridge, the path becomes a mountain trail, requiring caution with its irregular rocks and roots to cross. The trail is mainly uphill or flat. As you progress you can immerse yourself in this captivating forest, with the sounds of the forest and distant river as your companions.
On our afternoon walk, we mainly passed a few groups of hikers who were on the way back to the entrance. One of the things I find very enjoyable about hiking in Japan is the way Japanese hikers greet each other with "hello" (konnichiha) and smile at each other when their paths cross. As we progressed, we met fewer and fewer people, which made us feel like intruders in an enchanted world.
Photo by Fisheye Therapy
Admiring the Yakusugi cedars, in all their shapes and sizes, was a true marvel, that left me with a deep feeling of awe and gratitude.
The river crossing (picture below) before point 11 on the map was one of my favorite spots in the whole hike. Please note that you may get your shoes a bit wet in the crossing (like I did, so I was very happy to have proper mountain shoes) or you may not be able to cross in case of rising water with rain.
Photo by Fisheye Therapy
It can be difficult to appreciate the scale and size of Yakusugi trees from the photos above. I have therefore chosen the two photos below so you can have a better idea of their size in perspective.
In my memory, the sign indicating that I'd reached the moss-covered forest wasn't easy to spot, and I nearly missed it. But to be honest, I'd already had the impression that I'd entered Mononoke's Forest long before that moment. Everything was so peaceful, as if frozen in time, and so saturated with green.
It slowly started to get darker by the time we got to point 14, so we decided to start heading back. We didn't get a chance to see Taikoiwa Rock, but I didn't feel like I was missing anything, as my heart was filled with joy and my mind with images of this majestic forest. We returned to the car park at around 5.30pm, so it took us in total around 3.5 hours to complete the hike.
To Conclude
The Shiratani Unsuikyo ravine is a paradise for nature lovers and hikers. I hope this article will give you a taste of what it's like and provide you with some useful information to help you prepare for this memorable hike. If you're a Ghibli fan, visiting this place will undoubtedly have a special meaning for you, as it did for me.
Read my other Yakushima blog posts:
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