Explore Sarushima: A Unique Day Trip Destination in Tokyo Bay
Located not far from the port of Yokosuka, in Kanagawa Prefecture, Sarushima (猿島), which means Monkey Island, is the only uninhabited island of Tokyo Bay. With its fort ruins, luxuriant forest, clear sea and barbecue and leisure facilities, it is great destination for a half-day or a full day trip from Tokyo.
In this article, you can learn more about this hidden gem near Tokyo and get useful information to prepare for your own visit of Sarushima.
Why visit Sarushima?
Sarushima offers an enchanting combination of unspoilt nature and historical heritage, surrounded by the sea.
If you were intrigued to visit Sarushima because of its name, you may be disappointed to know that there are no monkeys on the island. The name comes from an old legend according to which a monk sailing to Enoshima got lost in a storm and was saved by a white monkey who led him to this island.
But, Sarushima will be of particular interest to Ghibli fans, as its abandoned fortress was a source of inspiration for Laputa: Castle in the Sky! This is what prompted me to visit Sarushima in the first place.
How to Get to Sarushima
Sarushima is accessible by boat from the port of Yokosuka. First, you need to take a train to the nearest train station, Yokosuka-chuo station (横須賀中央駅). From Shinagawa station, it takes about 45 minutes to reach Yokosuka Chuo on the Keikyu Main Line and costs ¥620.
From the station, walk for about 15 minutes to Mikasa pier (三笠桟橋) and take a boat to the island. The round trip by boat and the entrance fee to the island cost ¥2,000. Note that boats may not operate in bad weather.
Tickets can be purchased at the visitor centre next to the pier. There is also a souvenir shop and a small museum with information about the island (mainly in Japanese if I remember correctly).
Misaka Pier Ticket Office
Boat to Sarushima
There are hourly departures to and from the island, starting at 9:30am and finishing at 4:30pm in summer, and 3:30pm in winter. The schedule can be found here. It takes about 10-15 minutes to reach Sarushima.
Sarushima from afar
Arrival at Sarushima
Best Things to Do on Sarushima
1/ Explore Sarushima Ruins
Sarushima is famous for its fortress ruins reclaimed by nature, which served as one of the inspirations for Hayao Miyazaki's Laputa: Castle in the Sky.
Given its convenient location in Tokyo Bay, Sarushima served as a defensive outpost protecting the capital, and was heavily fortified from the Tokugawa Shogunate (1603-1867) up to the WWII period.
The remaining ruins include excavated earth tunnels, barracks and gun batteries. Much of the construction was made of red brick which is mostly covered in moss and ferns.
Photographers will love the bright colours of the bricks and moss, and the contrasts offered by the sunlight streaming through the trees and shadows. You might even come across some cosplayers doing a photo shoot in this unique setting.
If you understand Japanese, you may be interested in one of the daily guided tours of Sarushima (booking in advance is recommended). More details can be found here (in Japanese, but automatic translation is available with Google translate).
2/ Enjoy Sarushima Lush Nature and Ocean Views
Sarushima is a small island, so it doesn’t take more than 1-2 hours to walk around it. I was struck by the dense, lush nature on the island and the magnificent view over Tokyo Bay. It's the ideal place to practise shinrin-yoku, or forest bathing, to relax and connect with nature.
3/ Relaxing at the Beach
After some walking and exploring, what could be better than relaxing on the beach? When I visited in 2023, swimming in the sea was unfortunately prohibited. But kids and adults alike (myself included) did put their feet in the refreshing water! Perhaps things have changed since I was there.
You can also fish on the island, and fishing rod sets are available for rent if you don’t bring your own equipment.
4/ Have a Barbecue
It was fun to discover that Sarushima is a popular place for barbecue particularly in the summer. The Sarushima Rental Shop rents out barbecue sets, so you can easily enjoy a barbecue on the island. You can rent the barbecue equipment from up to one month before your visit to Sarushima. You can either bring your own ingredients, or buy a food set and pick it up directly on Sarushima. More details can be found here (in Japanese, but automatic translation is available with Google translate).
5/ Enjoy the Food and Beverage at Ocean Kitchen
If you haven't brought your own picnic or planned a barbecue, you can enjoy the food and drink served by Sarushima's only restaurant, Sarushima Oceans Kitchen. It offers a takeaway menu of dishes, snacks, desserts and drinks. You can see the restaurant’s menu here (in Japanese).
You can eat at one of the tables located on the wooden deck overlooking the beach, in the visitor center or on the beach.
Other Tips For Your Day Trip to Sarushima
Arrive at least 20 to 30 minutes at the Mikasa terminal before the departure time of the boat you wish to take, as you may have to queue to buy tickets.
Water is not drinkable on the island. So you'll need to bring it with you or buy it from the restaurant or vending machine on the island.
Check Sarushima tourist website before you visit. You can check their English version, or read Google Translate’s automatic translation of the Japanese version which is more detailed, in particular the information and Q&A page that I found very useful.
Other Things to Do in Yokosuka
Here are a few ideas for things to do in Yokosuka if you're only spending half a day on Sarushima (I haven’t been to any of those places myself):
Visit Mikasa Historic Memorial Warship (記念艦三笠), a naval battleship used during the 1905 Russo-Japanese war which has been turned into a museum (entrance costs ¥600). It is located just next to Mikasa pier.
Walk the Dobuita Street (ドブ板通り) in Yokosuka, a street marked by a strong American influence, located near the U.S military base.
Take the train to Keikyu-Kurihama station (京急久里浜駅) and visit the Kurihama Flower Park (くりはま花の国), which boasts magnificent floral displays and ocean views, as well as a large statue of Godzilla.
To Conclude
Sarushima is a great and original idea for a half-day or full-day excursion off the beaten track from Tokyo on a sunny day. Ghibli fans like me, or lovers of nature and ruins in general, will enjoy discovering the remains of the military fortress and the walking trails around this small island.
Are you looking for other islands with ruins in Japan? You may want to read my article Gunkanjima, a Captivating Cruise to an Abandoned Island in Japan.
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