A Half-Day Trip to Matsushiro, a Samurai Town in Nagano
If you're in Nagano and looking for a quiet, off-the-beaten-path destination, I highly recommend Matsushiro (松代). Nestled in the foothills of Nagano, this former castle town—now part of the city—offers a fascinating glimpse into Japan’s samurai past. Once the stronghold of the Sanada clan, Matsushiro is home to well-preserved samurai residences, a scenic castle park, and more.
I spent a morning exploring Matsushiro and am excited to share in this article my experience and the itinerary I followed.
Why Visit Matsushiro?
Matsushiro, once a distinct castle town, is now a historic district just 12 km south of Nagano City. Known for its samurai heritage, it was once the stronghold of the Sanada clan, a powerful clan that ruled as the lords of Matsushiro from the beginning of the 17th century to the end of the 19th century.
The town retains its Edo period charm with samurai residences, temples and gardens, as well as interesting museums, but its historical heritage is even richer, with its network of tunnels dating back to the Second World War, and more.
If you enjoy Japanese history and are looking for a quiet spot away from the usual tourist crowds, Matsushiro is definitely worth a visit!
How to Get to Matsushiro
Getting to Matsushiro from Nagano Station is simple by local public bus.
You can take a bus heading to Matsushiro at the bus platforms No.3 outside Nagano station’s Zenkoji Exit and stop at Matsushiro Station —the ride takes about 30 minutes and costs ¥660 one-way.
A Half-Day Walk to Discover Matsushiro
1. Start With a Stop at the Old Matsushiro Station
After boarding off the bus, you can quickly stop by a point of interest nearby: the Old Matsushiro Station (旧松代駅), a wooden building that serves as a nostalgic reminder of the town’s past.
Although train services no longer run here, the station has been preserved as a historical site. It was first opened in 1922 and stopped its operation in 2012 when the Nagano Electric Railway Yashiro Line was discontinued. Nowadays, the building is still used by locals as a bus shelter. I found it quite cute with its retro atmosphere.
2. Visit the Sanada Treasure Museum
You can next head to the Sanada Treasure Museum. On your way, you can stop by the Shinchu Matsushiro Tourist Information Center (信州松代観光協会), where you can get a map of the area, buy a castle stamp of Matsushiro Castle if you’re into collecting goshuin), or even rent a bike to explore the area.
The Sanada Treasure Museum (真田宝物館) is a museum that contains weapons and other antiques from the Sanada Clan. As far as I remember, the written explanations were mainly in Japanese (it was in 2023 so things may have changed since then). For non-Japanese speakers, I think the visit can be interesting (you can use the Google Translate app and the photo function to translate some of the explanations).
Admission to the Sanada Treasure Museum costs ¥600 for an adult or can be purchased as part of a combined ticket with other nearby attractions.
3. Enjoy a Stroll Through Matsushiro Castle Ruins
Built during the Sengoku period in 1560, Matsushiro Castle (松代城) expanded until the Meiji period, when it was partly dismantled in 1871 then destroyed by a fire in 1872. Some of the buildings, the wooden bridge and the main gates were restored in 2004, while the original stone walls can still be seen today.
I really enjoyed walking around the ruins of the castle, especially as I had it all to myself. I visited the park in winter, and I couldn't help but notice the large number of sakura trees, and could only imagine how wonderful this place would become a few months later during the sakura season in April!
4. Visit the Former Sanada Family Residence
Next stop on this itinerary is the Former Sanada Family Residence (真田邸（新御殿）). This national historic site was built at the end of the Edo period by the 9th lord of the Matsushiro domain, and it is the only building remaining from the Matsushiro Castle ruins. The house is very elegant and I found the gardens particularly beautiful. One of my fondest memories of Matsushiro is sitting on the veranda and admiring the gardens for a while.
5. Enjoy a Walk Around Matsushiro Bunbu School
A few minutes' walk from the Sanada residence is the Matsushiro Bunbu School (松代藩文武学校), a school opened by the Matsushiro estate to teach literary and martial arts to samurai children, and then turned into a elementary school until the Showa era.
I was surprised at how well-maintained the buildings were. Actually they’re still used as film locations for movies and historical dramas. If I had to recommend visiting just one of the places mentioned above, I think I'd choose this one because it was so much fun to visit (although I hope you'll want to visit them all).
6. Have Lunch in a Local Restaurant
After all that exploring, which took about 3 hours, it was time for a well-deserved lunch. There weren't many restaurant options in the area, and I decided to opt for a restaurant on the second floor of the Matsushiro tourist information center called Hana no Maru (お食事処・喫茶 花の丸), where I enjoyed a very nice bowl of ramen (perfect for warming up after spending the morning in the cold). The place was run by a friendly elderly couple and the menu included a variety of hot and cold soba and udon noodles, ramen, curry rice and more.
7. Continue Your Exploration of Matsushiro or Head Back to Nagano
In my case, I stopped my exploring of Matsushiro there, because I had to go back to Nagano station to get to my next destination in Nagano Prefecture in the afternoon. Nevertheless, if you have the time, you could spend a whole day exploring Matsushiro, as there are many other places of interest to discover, including the Zozan Imperial Wartime Tunnels (松代象山地下壕), which were built in the final months of the Second World War as a relocation point and headquarters for the Japanese army and government, once the Allied invasion was expected. There are also more samurai residences from the Edo period, as well as temples and shrines to visit, such as Chokokuji Temple, the family temple of the Sanada family.
➡️ You can check this walking map of Matsushiro from the Matsushiro Tourism Association.
A Few Travel Tips to Make the Most of Your Time in Matsushiro
1. Best Time to Visit: Matsushiro is a great destination year-round, but it must be especially beautiful in spring or autumn with a background of seasonal colors. Some special dates to know about are:
In spring, you can attend the Matsushiro Spring Cherry Blossom Festival, which will be held in 2025 on Saturday 12 and Sunday 13 April.
In autumn, a two-day festival is held in honour of the Sanada clan, called the Matsushiro Sanada Jumangoku Festival, featuring an impressive samurai parade.
2. Buses between Matsushiro and Nagano stations are relatively frequent (every 30 minutes). I would still recommend checking Google maps or bus stop signs for the exact timetable.
3. Matsushiro is a rather compact town, so you can walk around and visit almost all of the historic spots on foot. Both the Matsushiro Tourism Association and the Sanada Treasure Museum provide walking maps or itineraries that you can follow to explore the town.
4. You can save a bit of money by buying a combo ticket to visit 2, 3 or 5 facilities in Matsushiro. When I visited at the end of 2022, I for instance bought the combo ticket to visit the Sanada Treasure Museum, Sanada Residence and Bunbu School for ¥1,100.
Other Suggestions Around Matsushiro
Other Places to Visit in Nagano Prefecture
Nagano is a prefecture I really enjoy exploring, with so much to do!
There are more things to see and do in Nagano city, such as visiting Zenkōji temple (善光寺), or going to the more remote Togakushi shrine (I haven’t been there yet and it is high on my Japan bucket list).
A wonderful destination for onsen lovers easily accessible from Nagano is Shibu Onsen (渋温泉), especially in the wintertime when you can combine a stay in this traditional onsen town with a visit to the unique Snow Monkey Park (地獄谷野猿公苑). You can learn more in my articles:
A Winter Experience in Japan: a Guide to Shibu Onsen and the Snow Monkey Park
A Night at Kanaguya: A Review of a Traditional Ryokan in Shibu Onsen
If you love nature and hiking, you might be interested in hiking part of the Nakasendo, an ancient road that linked Kyoto and Tokyo in the Edo period, and visit some well-preserved post towns. I’ve covered two Nakasendo hikes in my articles: the popular Magome-Tsumago Nakasendo Trail (one of my favorite hikes in Japan) and the lesser-known Nakasendo Torii Pass between Yabuhara and Narai.
Other towns I really enjoyed visiting in Nagano prefecture were Karuizawa, Matsumoto and Suwa (I'll be writing about them soon, so be sure to sign up for my monthly newsletter to be informed when articles are published). And there are more destinations in Nagano prefecture that I can’t wait to explore someday, such as Kamikochi and Hakuba, and write about in the future, so stay tuned!
Where to Stay in Nagano
Looking for accommodation ideas in Nagano city? When I visited Nagano, I chose to stay at Sotetsu Fresa Inn Nagano-Zenkojiguchi for its close proximity to Nagano station (only 2-minute walk) and very affordable price. Everything went smoothly, the room were clean and comfortable and we could leave our suitcases early before check-in. So I can recommend it if you’re looking for a budget-friendly and convenient option near the station. If I were to stay again, I’d also recommend Dormy Inn, also located next to Nagano station, but with public hot spring facility with an open-air bath and sauna. It’s a hotel chain I often stay at because it offers excellent value for the money. If you’d like to stay closer to Nagano’s main attractions and enjoy a traditional ryokan stay, based on reviews, I’d go for Jizokan Matsuya Ryokan.
Final Thoughts on Matsushiro
I love discovering towns like Matsushiro that are brimming with culture and history, but are still little known. I'd love to go back one day to visit the Zozan imperial war tunnels and other samurai residences. If this article has inspired you to visit Matsushiro and you've enjoyed your visit, please let me know in the comments!
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